The Stand.earth Research Group (SRG) used customs records, corporate disclosures and investor reports to track U.S.-produced ethane through the supply chains of 107 major brands. Supporting the report is an interactive map that allows users to explore the connections between specific brands, their suppliers in the petrochemical sector and fracking companies.

“While conversations on alternatives to fracked oil and gas predominantly focus on end uses like heating or gasoline, the fashion industry is on track to become a major player in driving the expansion of fracking,” Dr. Devyani Singh, a researcher at Stand.earth, said in a statement.

The Permian Basin isn’t the only source of fracked gas, but Stand.earth made it the focus of their research because it is one of the world’s largest “carbon bombs,” or fossil fuel projects that, if fully exploited, would create more than one gigaton of carbon dioxide pollution. According to the non-profit research organization, nearly 28 gigatons of carbon dioxide could be released into the atmosphere if all the reserves in the Permian Basin were extracted and used.

Fracking takes an enormous toll on people and the environment, not only by contributing to the climate crisis, but also through air and water contamination, groundwater depletion, triggering seismic activity and violations of Indigenous rights.

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The petrochemical industry is set to outstrip transportation, aviation and shipping to become the primary driver of oil consumption around the world, as demand for plastic continues to surge. A 2018 report by the International Energy Agency found that “petrochemicals are set to account for over a third of the growth in oil demand to 2030, and nearly half to 2050.”

The oil and gas industry is looking for growth in petrochemicals to compensate for losses from the energy transition, and the fast fashion industry is powering that strategy – and solidifying its place as one of the world’s most polluting supply chains, responsible for between 4% and 8.6% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Manufacturers use ethane from fracked natural gas to make textiles and other consumer-facing products.

Of the 107 brands named in the report, 57 already have policies to phase out or eliminate virgin polyester, yet most of those are focusing on expanding their use of recycled polyester from plastic bottles – a strategy that nonetheless contributes to the oil and gas industry. Textile experts have challenged the sustainability of this solution because it diverts plastic bottles from functional closed-loop recycling systems and ultimately converts them into ever more textile waste.

Synthetic fibres are expected to account for 73% of global apparel production by 2030, according to the report, which calls on fashion brands to disclose their reliance on textiles derived from fracked gas. “The season of overproduction and sky-high climate emissions is made possible by harmful fracking and cheap petrochemicals, but it’s now time for brands to start a new tradition of sharing transparency into their supply chains, and giving a more sustainable future without fossil fuel fibres,” said Rachel Kitchin, a senior campaigner at Stand.earth.

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Last month, the Church of England promised to set up a £100-million fund, looking to make amends for its links to the international slave trade. The fund will focus “on improving opportunities for communities adversely impacted by historic slavery.” But slavery is not just a thing of the past. 

Globally, 50 million people are living in modern slavery, including 28 million in forced labour, according to the latest research from the International Labour Organization. This is 10 million more than in 2016 – a spike in numbers greater than the entire population of London.  

No company can put its head in the sand when it comes to this problem. 

​​​​​Business has a key role to play in eradicating this reality. Nearly two-thirds of forced labour (63%) occurs in the private sector, and the consumer goods industry is deeply impacted, with most cases identified in agriculture and manufacturing.  

Undoubtedly, it can be challenging to take on a leadership role when it comes to excluding abuse from global supply chains. The issue is sensitive, often hidden and deeply rooted, and the complexity of global value chains doesn’t make tracing it any easier. However, forced labour is a lot closer to most companies’ operations and supply chains than they would think. Respecting workers’ rights is the first social responsibility of any business, and freedom from forced labour must be the top priority.  

As the world’s largest convener of consumer-goods brands and retailers working together to drive positive change, The Consumer Goods Forum is deeply concerned about the increasing prevalence of forced labour globally in the last few years. We are committed to driving corporate action against this mounting social scourge, which is the focus of our CEO-led initiative, the Human Rights Coalition (HRC). 

Nearly two-thirds of forced labour (63%) occurs in the private sector, and the consumer goods industry is deeply impacted.

Our #CloserThanYouThink campaign aims to push all companies to speak up and increase awareness on human rights. Silence is unacceptable. While legislation is providing frameworks to mandate human-rights due diligence, businesses may be hesitant, fearing the negative connotations of being associated with modern slavery and forced labour in any way. Even those taking a proactive stance against it still struggle to efficiently identify potential cases of forced labour and handle situations of victims with the highest level of protection required. Governments should acknowledge these difficulties and support business action with adequate measures to encourage transparency and provide protection and remediation for victims. 

Driving awareness of the issue is integral to its eradication. When companies start being transparent and explaining what they’re doing to combat adverse human rights impacts in their supply chains, then consumers will understand the sheer scale of the problem.  

Increasing multitudes of people being forced to work under the threat of violence, intimidation, debt bondage or coercion is deeply unacceptable. And the harrowing reality is that 3.3 million of the people in forced labour are children. Other vulnerable populations are disproportionately impacted, such as women and girls and migrant workers.  

Companies must not only acknowledge the scale of the issue, but also ensure they offer an enabling environment for decent, fair and safe working conditions for all.  

What does this mean in practice? Our members are collaborating to eliminate forced labour by working to make human-rights due diligence and responsible recruitment the norm in the industry. We urge all businesses to follow suit.  

Going forward, we urgently need globally harmonized policy and legislation to ensure all workers’ rights are protected. In the meantime, corporate collaboration and co-operation will be key. The truth is that no company or industry can eradicate forced labour alone. Businesses will have to work with each other, but also with governments and non-profits – because today’s complex supply chains often span many countries, if not continents.  

Collective action is required to increase the visibility of what’s happening along the way. The further down ​the ​supply chain you go, the more precarious​ the ​work tends to be, especially in sectors like agriculture or manufacturing. The risks of abuse are at their greatest on the ground. 

Everyone should have the right to decent, fair and safe working conditions. Yet we are currently a long way from that scenario. Forced labour is a lot closer than you think, and no business is immune. On behalf of the members of our Human Rights Coalition, I urge all businesses to think critically about their exposure to forced labour risks and keep action on this issue top of mind in 2023.  

Together, we have the power to reverse the troubling figures showing a rise in forced labour – never forgetting that there are people behind the statistics.

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